Tapestry Weaving

Tapestry Weaving

The classical Tapestry was usually a structurally simple fabric in which the highly figured and elaborate design was produced by the placement of colored threads within well-defined areas of cloth.The warp was normally comparatively fine and of a neutral hue to prevent interface with multi colored wefts in which the design was developed.The ends were operated in the plain weave order and into each shed small portions of weft would  be placed,each short length conforming in color with the painted design positioned directly behind the warp threads.Each equivalent of a pick in a normal cloth would,therefore,consists of discontinuous length of wefts and the design would be built up,row by horizontal row,with the differently colored length of weft occupying increasing or decreasing spaces in conformity with the changes in the dimensions of the figures. 

The warp sheet in the hand tapestry loom was frequently placed vertically and in broad tapestries several weavers would be stationed side by side,each responsible for a vertical strip of design of a given width and each armed with a set of small shuttles containing the requisite colors of weft.The cloths produced in this manner usually consisted of single repeat,large picture panels used mainly as wall hangings,and similar techniques were employed in tapestry weaving in most of the ancient civilizations.

Although the making of tapestries in the manner described above is still practiced in various countries as a studio activity,the modern machine produced tapestry fabric has little structural affinity with the classical picture panel.The tapestry construction has been used for hangings,sofa rugs,upholstery work,table covers and carpets.At present fabrics of this type are mainly employed for upholstery purposes for which the hard -wearing quality of the structure particularly suited.The figuring elements may consists of cotton,wool or man made staple yarns:the ground warp,if present,is almost invariably a two fold cotton yarn,whilst the stitching elements are frequently fine, two fold cotton yarn or filament nylon.The stitching yarns are important element in the construction as they ensure cohesion and wear resistance of the fabric by preventing the formation of long floats whilst they may add to the structural variety which can be enhanced  by deliberately altering the appearance of similar color areas by the changes in the order of the stitching.Despite performing a vital role the stitching yarns must be unobtrusive and they must not interface with the color values of the main figure areas.For these reasons they are very fine and may be either black or be entirely transparent as is the case with the fine filament nylon yarns.

Simple Weft Face Tapestries

These represent the least complex of the tapestry structures and consists of a grond warp ,the lifts of which determine the disposition of the figuring wefts,the stiching warp,and a number of figuring wefts.The wefts,of which there are usually between two and four,interchange between the face and the back of the cloth thus producing a design in the number of colors equal to the number of different wefts.

In conclusion,in a 2 weft tapestry it takes two picks to complete a horizontal row of the design,in a 3 weft structure-three picks,and in a 4 weft-four picks.Thus if other conditions remain equal,a 2 weft tapestry is produced at twice the rate of a 4 weft fabric with an obvious advantage in respect of the cost of production.The stitching warp operates in a regular order stitching the weft floats both on the face and on the back so that no long floats are formed in any part of the fabric.Occasionally,the ground warp is also used for figuring on the surface thus adding another ornamental feature without increasing the cost of production.

Poothamkali

Poothamkali

Poothamkali

Poothamkali

Poothamkali is a folk art performed in the Bhagavathi temples of Mlappuram district in Kerala.Pootham is a character who accompanied Durga in her combat with Darika Asura.The performers ,usually three in number,undergo a week of austerity before presentation.Colorful and intricately designed masks carved out of the pala and murukku tress are the highlights of the attire.The fifteen minute performance starts slowly and works up to a frenzy towards the end.The thudi provides rhythm to the dance which is usually rendered at night.

Carpet Structures

Carpet Structures

Double wefting face to face weaving represents the principal method of producing self color,all -over cut pile carpets which after separation by the knife become structurally identical with those produced by the wire insertion method.Any constructions described in connection with the latter method can be used although the too-short structure is mainly employed,as depicted in the figure.All the healds are tappet controlled;the chain or ground ends are operated alternately two up,two down in each cloth,the stuffer yarns one down one up whilst the pile threads oscillate between the two cloths and are anchored around alternate picks in each fabrics.

Similar qualities can be made to those described with regard to carpets produced by the wire insertion method.Frequently high twist yarns are employed for the pile which have the merit of yielding carpets which are not only hard wiring and resilient but also less prone to show furniture marks, etc

Production rate of the face to face system compares very favorably with the wire loom.weaving identical quality body width carpeting in a too-short structure the face to face loom will produce 105 horizontal rows of tufts per minute as oppose to 55 by the wire loom.Similar proportional advantage is retained in broad loom weaving.

Cover of the Cloth and Reed Marks

Cover of the Cloth and Reed Marks

Reed marks are caused in the fabrics due to damaged reed,bent reed wires,wrong denting etc.If a coarse reed is used in weaving a fine sort,reed marks will also be apparent all over the fabric.

The position of the warp line in a loom has an important effect on the production of the cloth,since the height of top and bottom lines from central line of the shed governs the relative strains put up on the warp ends.If the warp threads move equal distance at the top and at the bottom lines from the center,the strain on both the lines of the shed will be equal.If this measure is adopted in a plain weave,the warp thread will lie in pairs in the order of denting,causing a reedy hard appearance in the cloth.Cloth showing this appearance is a 'bare cloth'. This is a serious defect in plain cloth.

Cover of the cloth

To remedy reed mark in cloth,the back rest is raised without altering the position of the healds.The top line of the shed will then be smaller and slack,and bottom line of the shed is bigger and strained.This method of alternate slackening and tightening the warp ends in successive picks is termed as 'troughing the shed'.By this it will spread the warp yarns  that form the top line of the shed between the warp yarns that form the bottom line of the shed at the time of beating up.The ends will be evenly distributed and the cloth will be soft and smooth.This appearance of the cloth is known as 'cover'It should be remembered that the warp line cannot be raised beyond a certain limit,because the increased strain on the bottom line of the shed cause them to break.Secondly too slack top shed will obstruct the weft yarn insertion in to the shed and cause 'stitching defect' in the cloth.

Troughing the shed is sometimes adopted for twill and sateen weaves to make the effect more prominent.The diagonal ridges of twill weaves become more prominent when the method of Troughing the shed is adopted in looms.

With a plain weave,beating up with a crossed shed and producing a slack top line and tight bottom line to obtain good  cover cloth,it become necessary to make the shed early,so that no reed mark will be noticeable.

A tugger cord runs from the front lease rod to the top of the reed cap over the healds and lifts the warp to slacken the top line and to tighten the bottom line of warp threads at the time of beating up for equidistribution.The cover factor is,therefore,an important point for assessment of the quality of plain cloths.

Arjuna Nritham(Mayil Peeli Thookkam)

Arjuna Nritham or Mayil Nritham is a ritual art performed by artists in peacock costume.Arjuna Nritham is devoted to Arjuna,the diligent student of Guru Dronacharya,whose power of concentration is well known.Arjuna appeased Goddess Bhadrakali(the Hindu Godardess of eternal energy)throgh a devotional dance presentation and it is believed that this dance form was Arjuna Nritham.The ritual is performed  throughout night in solo or in pair.The movements are similar to Kalaripayattu.

The rudiments of the songs Chenda,Thala Chenda,Ilathalam and Maddalam are the musical instrument used for this ritual.

Since the lower part of the garments of this dance is made of peacock feathers,the dance is also known as mayil peeli thookkam

Chavittu Natakam

Chavittu Natakam

Chavittu Natakam

Chavittu Natakam is an art form which evolved due to Portuguese influence.It developed under the auspices of the church in Kerala with the object of presenting biblical Themes.The actors stamp with their feet on wooden platforms to the tunes of songs and drums.Stories include that of Christian Saints,Charlemagne and Napoleon.
.....Another amazing visual treat from the God's own country!Hope you enjoyed it!expecting your comments and suggestions.

Chavittu Natakam

Textile products of Kerala

Textile Products of Kerala

Kerala's textile industry mainly located in handloom sector.Handloom fabrics of Kerala are well known for its quality and variety.Balaramapuram Sarees(a 5.5 meter long and 1.2 meter wide narrow fabric worn by ladies), Kuthampully Sarees,Kannur Shirtings and furnishings, Alappuzha Coir mats,terry/Turkish towellings and carpets are not only the examples of its popularity but, of course,its traditional value.The textile products of Kerala are made of  pure cotton ,coir(made from coconut fiber) ,Jute,Sisal and Palm fibers.Polyester cotton blends are rarely used.

Fly Shuttle Frame Loom 

Kerala's textile industry is depended on handlooms rather  than automatic looms due to its traditional nature.There are so many co.operative handloom societies run by the weavers ,across Kerala.These societies supply  cotton yarns(dyed/bleached),weaving accessories and other technical information required for the particular products.The weavers will produce the fabrics in hand looms, either in their home or a collective weaving shed located in the weavers co.operative society itself.The looms used to weave are pit looms(A primitive loom at floor level the shedding mechanism usually located in pits and the warp yarn is stretched parallel to the ground),frame looms and Jacquard/ Dobby looms.
The yarn intended for weaving is given a scouring treatment in closed vessels(earthen/iron) using caustic soda and soda ash and steeped over a night .The next day the yarn is taken out and washed well in water.A half bleaching  is given for the yarn if it it is intended for dyeing pastel shades.Bleeching powder(sodium hypo chlorate)or hidrogen peroxide is used as bleaching agents.Optical brightening agents such as tinopal,ranipal are used to enhance the brightness of bleached yarns.A souring treatment with Hydrochloric Acid is also done to control the pH value. The dyes used are vat ,reactive,direct and natural dyes.If the yarn is single count ie 10S, 20s etc,it is sized using starch.Then the warp yarn is prepared  in sectional/vertical warping machines.The warp yarn is tightly wound on wooden beams and fitted into looms.
The healds are usually made of varnished knitted wire healds, metallic healds etc.Bamboo reeds and metallic reeds are used for denting the warp.

• Erettu Thorthu/Erezha Thorthu/Mangadan Thorthu

Technical Specifications

Length:24 inches(61cms)/27inches(68.58cms)/30inches(76.2cms)
Width:48 inches(122cms)/54inches(137.16)/60inches(152.4cms)

Count of Warp:20s,26s(Cotton)

Count of Weft:26s(Cotton)
Reed Count:32s,36s
Drafting Order/Drawing Order:1,2
Denting Order:2 ends/dent
Ends Per Inch:32,36
Picks Per Inch:30,34
Lifting Order: 1,2

Erettu Thorthu or Erezha Thorthu

Thorthu is a towelling fabric made of cotton yarn..it absorbs the moisture quickly due to its loose structure.it is woven in plain weave using two heald shafts.the warp is drawn  1-1-2-2 order,that is ,the first two yarns are drawn through the two heald eyes of the first heald and third and fourth yarns are drawn through the two heald eyes of the second heald shaft.Then the first two yarns of the first heald shaft are drawn through the single split or dent of the reed and the third and fourth yarns of the second heald shaft are drawn through the second dent of the reed and so on.Due to this, the fabric woven will give the appearnce of a mat weave in 2 and 2 order.

• Kaili or Lungie

Technical Specifications

Length:2 meters
Width:52 inches(132cms)

Count of Warp:2/60s,2/80s,2/100s(Cotton)

Count of Weft:2/60or 40s,2/80 or 40s,2/100s or 60s(Cotton)
Reed Count:72s,80s,92s
Weave Employed:Plain
Number of healds:4
Drafting Order/Drawing Order:1,3,2,4
Denting Order:2 ends/dent
Ends Per Inch:72,80,92
Picks Per Inch:68,78,90
Lifting Order: 1&2up 3&4 down

Lungi or Kaili

Kaili or Lungi is worn by the gents of Kerala.Usually made of cotton and sometimes in poly cotton blends too.It is a casual wear.The kaili or Lungi designs are either in checks or stripes of vivid colour combinations.In olden days the yarns were dyed using Naphtol/Azoic dyes,nowadays it is completely replaced with vat and reactive dyes.

• Saree

Technical Specifications

Length:5.5 meters
Width:48 inches(132cms)

Count of Warp:60s,80s,100s,120s  (2/80s or2/100s for border)

Count of Weft: 60s ,80s,100s,120s
Reed Count:72s,80s,92s,100s
Weave Employed:Plain&Jaquard motifs in border and cross border
Number of healds:4
Drafting Order/Drawing Order:1,3,2,4
Denting Order:2 ends/dent(3ends/dent for borders)
Ends Per Inch:60,80,100,120
Picks Per Inch:58,78,96,116
Lifting Order: 1&2up 3&4 down
Number of Hooks of Jacquard:120,400,600,800

Saree woven with Zari yarn

Saree is a thin fabric woven by using fine yarns.It is used by ladies.The traditional Kerala saree has off white color.It is a highly decorative fabric woven in different styles and textures.It gives a designer endless imagination and creativity.

Traditional Saree Motifs woven with pure Zari Yarns(extra weft figuring)

In traditional sarees the extra weft motifs arewoven by inserting extra wefts with hands.these usually include the motifs of parrot,peacock,mango shape and small geometrical motifs.Nowadays dobbies and jaquards are playing  this role.

Saree Cross Border

Saree has got two side borders usually 2.5to 5 inches in width.It has also got a cross border.Fine Zari/Jari yarn is also widely used in these sarees.

• Double Dhothi or Double Mundu

Technical Specifications

Length:4 meters
Width:52 inches (132 cms)

Count of Warp :60s,80s,100s(Cotton)

Count of Weft: 60s ,80,100s (Cotton)
Reed Count :72s,80s,92s
Weave Employed:Plain
Number of healds:4
Drafting Order/Drawing Order:1,3,2,4
denting Order:2 ends/dent
Ends Per Inch:72,80,92
Picks Per Inch:68,78,90
Lifting Order: 1& up 3&4 down

Traditional Kerala Dhothi

Dhothi woven with Bleached and dyed Yarns

Double Mundu or Double dhoti is gents formal wear.The dhoti has a small border and cross border, 1 to 2.5 inches wide,on both sides.Dark colors are used for these borders.The body is off white  color. Zari yarns are also used in borders and cross borders.

• Bed Sheets and Pillows

Technical Specifications

(Bed Sheets)
Length:2.30 meters
Width:50inches(132cms),60 Inches(153 cms),72 Inches(183cms)

Count of Warp:2/20s,2/40s,(Cotton)

Count of Weft:2/20or 20s,2/40 or 20s or 26s,(Cotton)
Reed Count:36s,40s,64s,72s
Weave Employed:Plain,Twill,Satin etc
Ends Per Inch:36,40,64,72
Picks Per Inch:32,38,62,70

(Pillows)

Length:54 Inches(137cms),60 Inches(153cms)
Width:27inches(68.5cms),30 Inches(76 cms)

Count of Warp:2/20s,2/40s,(Cotton)

Count of Weft:2/20or 20s,2/40 or 20s or 26s,(Cotton)
Reed Count:36s,40s,64s,72s
Weave Employed:Plain,Twill,Satin etc
Ends Per Inch:36,40,64,72
Picks Per Inch:32,38,62,70

Combination of Cotton weft and Linen warp in 5 thread Satin weave

Jaquard Loom

Bed sheets and Pillows woven in fly shuttle frame looms.Jaquard looms are also used for the production.Combination of cotton and linen also used for the production.The yarns are dyed in hank form using Vat,Reactive and Natural dyes. 

Coir products of Kerala

Kerala produces a great variety of products made out of coir as a raw material. The commercial production of coir in Kerala dates back to the ninetieth century and has become the largest cottage industry in the state, employing millions. The beginning of coir spinning wheels during the mid nineties, facilitated in increasing the production and to obtain the required yarn strength for the manufacturing of matting. The coir fibre is elastic and flexible to twist without breaking and it holds a curl as though permanently waved. The coconut contains three layers– the outer layer which is smooth and greenish is called the Exocarp; the inner layer which is the fibrous husk is called Mesocarp and the innermost layer surrounded by the hard woody layer is called the Endocarp. The coir fibre is waterproof and resists damage against salt water. The sea water and fresh water is used in the production of white coir.

Coir Yarn Spinning

• Spinning Process

The refined fibre is accumulated in a hand-made pouch affixed to the waist of the worker. The handful of fibre is rubbed against the hands forming a twist of the fibre.  One end of the twisted fibres is looped and hooked to the motorized machine and the other end of the twisted fibres is fixed to the manual spinning machine. The fibre is automatically conveyed from the pouch to form the thread. The women worker walks backward and ply the thread by concurrently handling both the threads with both the hands to make the twine of uniform thickness. Using the manual spinning wheel, the two twisted fibre threads are spun to make the twine more thick. Finally, the twine is attached by rubbing the two twines together to form a long twine.

Coir Warping

The coir yarn is warped in horizontal warping machine according to the number of ends required for weaving.Then this warp is wound on warp beams and taken for weaving.

Coir Weaving

Coir Mats

Coir Mats

COIR GEO TEXTILES-AN ECONOMICAL AND NATURAL SOLUTION FOR SOIL EROSION -FROM GOD'S OWN COUNTRY

Coir Geo textile is a natural remedy for large scale soil erosion.It is widely accepted because of the bio biodegradability and Eco friendly nature. Its durability,hairy surfaces gives better hold of the soil.It also allows the roots of the vegetation to pass which also enhances the surrounding areas.These are classified as woven and non woven.
Woven mats are further  divided as coir mesh matting with two shaft weaving,looped mats,latex backed coir mats. 
Non woven mats are further divided in to coco logs,coir fiber beds,coir needle felts.

The product list is incomplete,i will update it as soon as possible.
Hope you enjoyed it!expecting your comments and suggestions.